After a few days of snow and sub zero temperatures, there was a chance of a day out in the Lake District albeit with high chance of rain later in the afternoon so Hubby, Daughter and Partner, The Dog and I grasped the window with both hands. After some procrastination and discussion, we decided to head to Grizedale Forest on the west side of Lake Windermere for a walk, then onto Ambleside for some light retail therapy and an evening meal. So we set off along the South Lakes Peninsula and the A590 before doing a right just past the Lakeland Motor Museum at Newby Bridge/Backbarrow and followed a narrow country lane up to Grizedale forest.
https://www.forestryengland.uk/grizedale
https://www.visitlakedistrict.com/things-to-do/grizedale-forest-and-visitor-centre-p1211031
The route was pretty in the weak sunshine, with white washed cottages dotted here and there in between the more traditional slate. Some properties were high on the hillside and had fantastic views from picture windows. Past fields, valleys and woodlands, it was very interesting and the little hamlets like Slatterthwaite, huddled in this stunning valley. I saw little of the scenery as I drove carefully along the road – there were dry stone walls, oncoming traffic, potholes and even a wandering peacock to contend with!
Finally we arrived at the Visitor Centre at Grizedale Forest without further incident and parked up. The Forest comes under the jurisdiction of Forestry England (formerly The Forestry Commission) which allows their woodlands to be open to the public chiefly for walking and biking with a network of waymarked tracks throughout as well as hosting other activities. It is also a working landscape as Forestry England manages logging within the woodland, with large swathes given over to wood production.
We had a map of the various paths on offer which were of varying distances – some short strolls, others 10 mile hikes around the perimeter. We picked the Grizedale Tarn Trail as it was a nice 4 miles and perfect for our 15 year old dog without breaking her. We had to look out for wooden posts with a white strip on them, indicating the Tarn Walk and so followed the large arrows pointing to the beginning of our walk. However, we were stopped in our tracks before we had even started, as orange barriers barred our way down the path. A sign read “closed for maintenance work, follow the signs for Millwood Trail to connect with the Tarn Trail”. So we turned around and followed the signs for the Millwood Trail, which took us through the Visitor Centre, a clutch of Victorian buildings (it reminded me of the grand stable blocks that the Lord of Manor built for his prized ponies) housing artisan workshops, art gallery, a cafe and other facilities.
We popped out by the bike hire and the entrance of Go Ape, an adrenaline junkies and lovers of heights playground. Suspended high up in the treetops, a series of challenging high-level tree-top crossings wheedle their way through the canopy before dropping these mad people back to terra firma via a zip wire. I would love to have a go, but just know I would freeze at the first platform and would need rescuing while my family looked on, howling with laughter. You are all hooked on, but I still wouldn’t be happy. There would just be a lot of screaming on my part. There seemed to be quite a few adventurous souls up there, apart from an older lady looking rather petrified as she walked along a slatted walkway – she looked like someone’s granny who had been coaxed up there by a keen and excitable grandson who had now abandoned her as he was young, carefree and super confident. She looked like she would be more comfortable hugging a latte in the cafe! I was in admiration of her.
https://goape.co.uk/locations/grizedale
We followed the path by the side of Go Ape looking out for our white posts, but came to another parking area and found no other signs or diversions. We asked a passing Go Ape employee but he offered no useful information. Maybe it was on the road somewhere and so we set off on the lane, heading back towards the Visitor Centre keeping a beady eye out. We were practically back at the Centre when we spotted an A4 laminated sheet, on the other side of the road, nailed to a footpath sign in amongst another cluster of purple barriers!* Our path! We had done a complete loop for nothing!
* there seemed to be a lot of barriers and maintenance work being carried out around the car park and Visitor Centre. Presumed they were preparing for the summer season!
This path instantly went straight up an incline, so we were thankful that the loop had inadvertently given us chance to warm up. We walked steadily up on the stony path, stopping to admire the opening vista and one of the art installations which are dotted throughout the forest. As we stood there, a large family group passed us and we let them have some distance before we resumed the pull up.
We joined a broad logging road and continued upwards, though not so steep now. There was patches of snow still on the ground here and there, which instigated a brief snowball fight between us. A couple of filthy mountain bikers cycled past, blathered in mud, but thoroughly enjoying themselves. Finally we reached the ridge by the statue of a fox and we admired the long distance views of snow covered Lakeland fells.
Spotting a white post to the right we followed the road and caught up with the large family. We passed them and dropped down a gravelly side path through coniferous and deciduous woodland, the path gently rising and dropping, us skipping over little streams while The Dog had a slurp of water. There were muddy spots, but not too many and easily negotiated. We stopped by a patch of grass and dug out our cake we had bought as a snack. The Dog got her treats but was also surreptitiously supplied with cake too. As we were finishing it off, we felt rain and put up our hoods. Onward bound!
We followed the white marker posts with ease – they were frequent and easily spotted. The rain wasn’t heavy and we were sheltered by the trees. We came across another road covered with snow – the Lakes had been covered by a thick layer of snow only a couple of days ago after an Arctic blast, but with the temperatures rising quickly again, there wasn’t much left of the white stuff. Stacks of logged wood lined the road here – evidence of the logging and management of the forest by Forestry England. Stern signs told us not to clamber on them!
We suddenly realised that we had permanently lost the large family we had been regularly overtaking. We carried on walking. We were starting to drop down again into the valley and it was getting prettier. Waterfalls, stone bridges, dry stone walls in amongst the bare native trees on the hillside. The pines trees huddled together nearby, their dark gloomy interiors groaning gently. We hoped to see a deer.
We started to come across blocked off paths again with diversion signs which we dutifully followed. We could see the car park far below through the trees. Suddenly our large family reappeared coming from the opposite direction, the adults looking baffled at their phones. When we met in the middle we exchanged pleasantries until one of them piped up. “Are you going back to the car park?” We said yes and that we had been dropping down. There was a flurry of groans and a lot of “we should of turned off back there”. They turned on their heels and followed us at a respectable distance. We came across a normal footpath sign and looking at our digital OS map realised it sliced off a hefty corner – we didn’t hesitate -we plunged down the path to a lovely little beck at the bottom. The large family followed. We carried on up the other side to a gate and was burped out into a field which we crossed. We spotted familiar landmarks and knew we weren’t far away now. The large family had obviously been distracted by the water and were no longer behind us. Over a wall stile and we were back on the steep track and a few hundred yards later, the visitor centre loomed up in front of us!
We headed to the cafe for a well earned coffee, bagging a window seat. This would be lovely in the summer with the courtyard and outdoor seating – probably quite a sun trap. Instead we watched people scuttle past in wet rain gear as we hugged our drinks. We wandered back to the car and paid the car parking fee. There must be an ANPR (automatic number plate recognition) system in operation as the machine asked for your registration plate. I had only entered the first two letters before my car reg popped up on the screen! Wow! I winced as I paid the fee – it’s expensive to park in the Lakes, but if it maintains a woodland like this, I am happy.
We got back to the car just in time as the heavens opened and the mist descended obliterating any views. We jumped back on the narrow lane heading towards Ambleside, having the added bonus of heavy rain to contend with, skirting past Hawkshead, a popular tourist village in the summer and meandered our way into Ambleside which we know fairly well.
Ambleside is a pretty town full of traditional Lakeland stone buildings, but is a tourist hotspot. In the summer it’s clogged with traffic and heaves with people with their holiday heads on but on a rainy Sunday afternoon in mid March, there were only a few brave souls dodging the puddles. We parked up, but the rain suddenly intensified and there was a reluctance to venture outside as it pounded on the car roof. As it eased, we jumped out, donned wet weather gear (including The Dog) and waddled quickly to the centre of town. We had two hours to kill before our restaurant reservation so we contented ourselves perusing in a nearby outdoor shop.
Ambleside, like many of the main towns in the Lakes is geared up for the tourist masses that regularly descend upon it throughout the year. It’s streets are full of outdoor shops, tea shops, high end clothing outlets, gift shops, pubs and anything else that attracts tourists in their hoards. We avoid it in the summer months – just too busy for our liking, but today was okay. I needed some new shoelaces for some boots and bought a little day rucksack too, but after two outdoor shops we were bored – there are only so many you can visit. The rain was now steady, but wasn’t conducive for wandering the streets or going further afield, so we went into the nearest pub, a large, but cosy affair done out in wood, found a suitable table and nursed pints of beer for an hour to kill the time.
At 5pm, we skipped through the unrelenting rain to Lucy’s On A Plate, an unassuming restaurant down a side road, slightly off the beaten track. We found this place with some friends a few years ago and is the place we always head to whenever in Ambleside. It’s simply decorated, no airs and graces, the staff attentive but serves the most amazing food. It’s a little gem. We settled at a table at the back, The Dog napping under the table and ordered our food after a lengthy deliberation. It all sounds delicious. We had been raving for ages about Lucy’s to our daughter and about how wonderful it was. Now she could see why. Every table is candlelit, a balloon is placed on the table if you’re celebrating and on the menu’s, there’s a write up telling diners who celebrating what or who’s just revisiting because they love Lucy’s. Simple little touches that make it that bit more special.
Suitably stuffed and very happy, we prepared to face the wet weather again and walked quickly through the darkened streets of Ambleside, everyone now warm and cosy inside. Jumping in the car, everything gets turned on full whack – heater on full blast, the a/c to stop steaming up, rear heater, windscreen wipers, the lot. The car park has no lighting whatsoever, so we creep out back to the main road and head for home, driving slowly down the A591 past Windermere and Kendal, keeping an eye out for puddles spilling over across the road. We finally make it home, The Dog crashing on her mat, us on the sofa and all of us falling asleep. It had been a lovely and very enjoyable day.
We didn’t break The Dog, though she refused to move out of her pit from underneath the stairs the next morning. She could just about move her eyes. She had an extra hour in bed before moving to the fire where she stayed for most of the day. What a life.
apathtosomewhere 